Bassett Street Amber
First we washed everything. It’s really, really
important. Really. And we had to test our stovetop to make sure
it could handle the boil. For this batch
(since we’re using a kit and not buying our individual ingredients from the
local home brew store) we’re following the directions…behaving ourselves…although
I’m already thinking about possible infusing ideas.
And just as I typed that, Tyler (our mentor) asked if we’d
like to stray from the recipe a bit and divide the hop addition to pull back on
the bittering and add to the flavor and aroma.
Um…okay.
So it looks like our pot’s gonna boil! It’s a good thing because the alternative is
a big ol’ propane burner – think like you’d use to fry a turkey – that Tyler
brought over. I’m sure our landlord would be happy that the pot will boil, too.
While we were waiting for the pot to boil, we had a little
vertical tasting: Victory Old Horizontal.
Tyler brought a 2009 and a 2013.
Nice way to spend time while boiling the water.
We finally got to a good boil and (because we were just
testing and used tap water) we dumped the boiling water over the can of malt (hopped
amber) extract to soften the syrup.
Three gallons of Eldorado bottled water (the third best water in the
world, according to the guys at Stranahan’s Distillary – it’s the water they use) go into the pot and we begin the real boil. Bring to a 165°.
We bought hop bags and grain bags. The big bags are for the grains, the small
ones are hop bags…they’re gauze bags that keep the demerits out of the boil. Once the water reaches 165, we drop the pound
and a quarter of malt into the pot and let it steep for 30 to 45 minutes (there
is no too long).
The malt we used for this batch:
.75 lbs English Medium
.25 lbs English Brown
.25 lbs Belgian aromatic
Tyler chose these malts from an earlier batch he liked. He and Joe bought the grain and course ground
them at the store.
We steeped the grain bag at between 150° and 165°. Too cold is okay, too hot is bad.
After 35 minutes we took out the grain bag. Raise the bag above the liquid and let it
drain out…do not squeeze…squeezing invites the flavors off your hands.
Return the liquid to a boil.
By this time our kitchen smells like a strong tea brewing. A little like tea and a little like the
smell of a brewery tour. We’re on the
right track. Once it got back to a boil,
we added the liquid extract, stirring so it didn't wind up on the bottom of the
pot and scorch. After the pot began to
boil again, we added the dry extract.
When the pot once again began to boil, we added our first
bag of hops. For our first add, we used Cascade
hops.
So here’s the thing: hops additions fall into three
categories: bittering, flavor, and aroma.
If the hops has a high alpha acid percentage, the more bitter flavor it
will impart. The lower the percentage,
the less bitter it is. So if you
shooting for a bitter hoppy beer, you’d look for the higher percentage and you’d
boil the shit out of it. If you’d like a
more flavorful, aromatic beer, plan on many later additions. Whatever you add in the later additions will
add flavor no matter what, but a short boil of a high percentage hop will still
add bitterness, but it’ll be negligible.
After I dropped in the hop bag, we set the timer for 50
minutes. It’s really starting to smell
like bakery…the wort aroma is taking over our kitchen.
We stirred the wort a couple of times during this boil just
to check the bottom (to make sure nothing was sticking).
It was about now that we rehydrated the yeast. We sanitized my Pyrex 2-cup measuring cup and
added a cup of Eldorado water. You dump
in the yeast – don’t stir – and cover it with aluminum foil so nothing will fall into the cup. Let it set until you’re ready to use.
We filled one of the 5 gallon barrels with sanitizer and
dropped in the thermometer, the funnel and the rest of our “tools” so we wouldn't
infect the beer. We bought StarSan - it’s a no rinse sanitizer…and, apparently a
little bit of sanitizer in your beer doesn't hurt it at all.
At the 50 minutes mark, we added a second hopping (or late
addition). This addition consisted of a
pinch of Irish Moss (helps keep the sediment at the bottom of the barrel instead of floating around in your brew), some
Cascade hops and some Citra hops. This late
addition…we’re only going to boil for 10 minutes.
The total boil time should be 60 minutes or longer…additional
hops should be boiled for only 10 or 15 minutes…you really want to boil the bittering hops
for 30 minutes (and plus), but the additional hops should be shorter so that
you keep the flavor in the beer…so 10 to 15 minutes max for each.
At the appointed hour, we took the two hop bags out of the pot
and moved the beer from the stove into the sink and into an ice bath…we need to
cool the beer to 75°.
Once the beer cooled, it was time to dump into the
fermenting bucket (primary). Be sure to
aerate the beer - you can aggressively pour the beer into the bucket or just give the
bucket a good shake - it gets that yeast hungry and working.
Next, we added three gallons of Eldorado water to the
fermenter bucket. The goal is to end up
with 5 gallons (you lose some in the grain bag, in the evaporation, in the
transfer, etc.).
We pulled the pot out of the ice bath and dried off the
sides so no water dripped into the bucket, and poured the luscious liquid into the fermenter bucket using a huge funnel that had a tight mesh screen at the bottom. Almost instantly it clogged up. We quickly sanitized a plastic spatula (30 seconds) and began to drag it gently across the screen pulling the clog to one side so the liquid could pass through.
Once it was all in, we added the yeast and gave the bucket a bit of a shake. We dropped the floating hydrometer into the batch (after sanitizing). The hydrometer measures the gravity (how much sugar content the beer has). You measure before fermentation and after…the difference between the numbers shows you how much sugar was converted to alcohol…it helps you calculate the ABV. We were right on target at 1.044.
Once it was all in, we added the yeast and gave the bucket a bit of a shake. We dropped the floating hydrometer into the batch (after sanitizing). The hydrometer measures the gravity (how much sugar content the beer has). You measure before fermentation and after…the difference between the numbers shows you how much sugar was converted to alcohol…it helps you calculate the ABV. We were right on target at 1.044.
We popped the bucket top on and put the airlock in the
available hole. And we’re done. By tomorrow, we should see the bubbles in the
airlock (which tells us the fermentation process is working).
Nice description! I look forward to hearing how the first uncapping tastes.
ReplyDelete